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I've got some bugs to reportThe kerbs on the tracks don't seem to trigger the sound and ffb rumble the way that most Rfactor2 tracks do.In the MR18 the surround texture for the side windows is transparent to certain track materials? I noticed this with the kerbing on Imola.In the MCR the vertical rev/shift lights on either side of the display are completely transparent when not lit up, you can see straight through to the dash behind themAlso I would say the interior sounds in general are too quiet, although Rfactor2 sounds are all over the place even in Studio397 content, maybe Reiza has done the best they could. But the tyre scrub sound for the rears on the PUMA GTE doesn't sound right at all. It's almost like a theremin sample or something. It's most noticeable after a corner when straightening out the car again.In the car garage menu, the steering lock on most Rfactor2 cars show the degrees of rotation for the steering wheel, and then the max steering angle in parentheses like below, whereas the Reiza cars only show the steering angle.And in the notes section of the garage menu for cars with no pit limiter it usually shows a hint for the pit speed. This would be very helpful on the Formula Vee.The physics is fantastic, you've done a great job on the cars and I absolutely love the little details on the tracks with the spectator cars driving around and crossing the bridge during the session, and the drones that fly around.Maybe this last thing isn't a bug per se but the car liveries/skins on the Puma GTE seem a bit too saturated or vibrant compared to the other cars.

That might just be a useless personal opinion though.Thanks for the great content! Brilliant pack!Interesting thing. I like cars steering more with slightly off steering degrees. I felt that if game and wheel profiler degs were 1:1, then cars feels too direct to me, not enough pneumatic at tires. Great with 1:1, but with an error of few percent feels somehow more natural in my mind.Some graphics things. Though I think everything is great.

There are few things I'd like to mention. Some trees has mip maps bleeding out very noticeably. As i drove in historic Imola I thought that shadows are too dar, ambient color too dark? Other rF2 thing?. Absolutely love VIR, I think it is best looking. Very good track. But I thought that tarmac specular maps are a bit dull when going to T1.

At Imola I thought that tarmac lacks visual features.Is Puma P052 using the clutch, it was weird at first, but when I started using clutch and heel and toe, it became very awesome. 1st thing: I'm very impressed by how all the cars feel and the tracks look great as well.I already wrote this in the rF2 thread for the dlc: There are just some minor and one (at least for me) quite annoying bug:- The front suspension of the Formula Vee car is invisible in cockpit view.

Hard to notice on the monitor, but very noticable in vr:- With low player car details i get a lot of z-fighting in both wing mirrors of the Puma P052. The issue disappears with higher graphics settings though:- In AMS all the cars with the Chevy V8 have this incredibly satisfying engine start noise, but there seems to be a bit of it missing in the Metalmoro AJR car with that engine. I recorded the car both in AMS and rF2 to hear the difference.

Tracks are incredible, at least Guapore, VIR and 2018 Imola so far looksl ike top content there was in rF2 yet. I also drove tracks in the rain, heavy rain, to dry. And it looks fantastic. Very good utilisation of rF2 engine has been made. Some times as i drove through 2018 wet Imola as it was raining, and later just as rain stopped, the track looked almost real.

I got some of GranTurismo Sport visual vibes. Amazing.Puddles in Guapore are very intense, looks amazing, but no aquaplaning or any features of puddles physics and sounds starts running in the mind, but it is ofcourse just a wish, not an issue.Also as I drove Guapore i saw all the puddles, but honestly thought that physical mesh of the road is not matching that well. I know thats just cosmetic, not an issue, just an rF2 wish again. But also I suppose that track is simply too flat in terms of macro undulations.Liked driving in the rain a lot, it is fantastic and I love to use this feature of rF2. I thought that cars may be too good with longitudinal traction in the wet, and doing a bit too fast laptimes, didn't felt very much slower.

Hey guys,I intended to write this consolidated post for the optimal ffb (force feedback) settings for rfactor 2 users sometime ago but I had been reluctant to do so considering how much time it took writing the countless posts in different threads. However, it'll save me time and effort from repeating myself in the future (not that i really minded) if i do make this dedicated thread/post, so here goes.The below may look daunting but it'll be worth it.i promise.HR/HRDefining the problemsThere are two problem areas that affect the ffb performance of your wheel in rfactor 2 (but this also applies to any and all racing sim titles). These two problems occur in the low end forces (known as an 'initial ffb deadzone' issue which causes a complete looseness in the ffb initially which affects your performance mostly in the slow speed corners) and in the high end forces (known as an 'ffb clipping' issue which causes the wheel to max out at 100% force too early which affects your performance mostly in the fast speed corners).The reason we should address these two issues is that they are the key issues to unlocking our fullest driving potential, allowing us to drive more subconciously (a.k.a. Being in the 'zone'/' flow') which is where we operate with the least amount of conscious effort and yet perform at our best and more consistently so. In my own personal experience having found the perfect settings for my own wheel, i have seen a giant and easy 1-2 second lap time and consistency improvement in all of my personal bests (where my performance had plateaued for many months leading up to it). The improvement did not occur the moment i made these ffb adjustments but in my case it was less than a week later (so maybe I could argue that it was pretty instant after all).hopefully that gives you enough reason to read on.HR/HRSetting up our wheel profiler correctly before we startBefore we get started, we need to setup our wheel profilers correctly.

Here i have screenshots of the Logitech g25/27 and Thrustmaster t500 profilers with the correct settings. You should have spring and damper and any spring-centering/auto-centering disabled. These effects are not realistic and should only come from the dynamic ffb calculated by rfactor 2's physics engine. Adding it like this from the profiler is not at all realistic as it simply adds a layer of static (i.e.

Fake) effect ontop of the dynamically calculated real-time ffb in rfactor 2 (which you don't want to be degrading in any way). CORRECTION: Thanks to Flaux for correcting me on this. Turns out enabling spring/damper in the profiler seems to then allow rf2 to apply it's own spring/damper affects onto the final ffb output. Whilst i still believe it is 'artificial' in nature, it may very well be desirable for some specific cars since it can make the ffb feel more realistic due to some inherent problems with how conventional ffb hardware works.

However, having said all this, i've not been able to test this for myself so you will need to test for yourself. Please read edit 11 at the bottom of the post for further details. Lastly, you can play with the 'overall effects strength' a little but try to leave it as close to default as shown below (and if you want to increase them, do not go higher than 110-112% for the logitech g25/27 wheels and no higher than 70% for the thrustmaster t500. And i use 70% on my t500 which feels best imo, so don't worry with upping it a little on g25 wheels too.

Going any higher will not increase the maximum force of your wheel but will instead start to cause the very issue we are trying to fix in 'Part 1' below). This generally applies to all other wheel users as well.HR/HRWith that out of the way, let's begin with the high end force issue (a.k.a. Ffb clipping):Part 1 - the high end forces (a.k.a FFB Clipping - the most important issue): What is it?To answer that, i must first explain how ffb works.

The physics engine in rfactor 2 calculates the forces generated at the virtual steering wheel and this correlates to some amount of force generated at your ffb wheel. The relationship between how much force calculated ingame to how much force is generated by your ffb wheel is decided by rfactor 2. Please note however that when i say 'the amount of force generated by your ffb wheel' i mean as a percentage of the maximum force producible by your specific ffb wheel.as the same 40% ffb signal sent to a leo bodnar wheel, t500 and a g27 will each generate a different amount of force felt by the user. Each wheel is producing a force that is 40% of the maximum force that is producible by the different ffb motor's in each wheel, just emphasizing the fact we're not dealing with absolute values here as rfactor 2 doesn't care what wheel you are using.Fortunately, we are able to control the relationship between the forces calculated at the virtual steering wheel and our ffb steering wheel. This control is called the 'car-specific FFB multiplier' ingame:(side-note: Also set your ffb smoothing to 0, pretty much works on all wheels but some older wheels like g25/27 may experience rattling which is unfortunate and you can reduce/remove the rattling by adding smoothing but it is strongly advised you set it to 0 as this will give you the purest/raw ffb detail)Generally speaking, increasing this value will increase the strength of all the forces on your wheel. Vice versa, decreasing this value will decrease the strength of all the forces on your wheel. At first this may seem like a great idea as you can just increase the strength of your g25 by increasing this value.

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But it comes at a detrimental (yet not immediately apparent) cost to your driving performance. At a certain point/value, you will hit what is know as the 'ffb clipping' margin. What this means is that whilst on track, when you are driving in situations that produce the highest force at the virtual steering wheel (such as high speed corners), the game is asking for more than 100% of your wheels maximum force. Of course this is not possible so instead your ffb wheel remains at a constant 100% force, meaning you miss out on that all important detailed information regarding the cars balance and traction when you drive in that ffb clipped region.

In fact it's worse that just 'missing out' on the information, what's actually happening is that your getting mis-information from your wheel. Think about it for a second.your ffb wheel is telling you the force is constant yet the car could be increasing in forces at the virtual steering wheel which would otherwise be telling you that the car could be about to oversteer (or worse yet snap oversteer) or understeer. Instead your mind is being told that the car is in a stable 4 wheel slide when on the screen you are being told a different story.

Click to expand.For the few cars i routinely drive, i have found for example that the Renault Megane value is around '0.75' and for the Panoz it is around '0.85'. You will have to test this for yourself and to find values for other cars. It really doesn't take a lot of time and it's completely worth it.

It can get a little tricky trying to perfect this value to make sure the ffb is not clipping when your going around high speed corners and can't focus on the bar graph in the corner and i sometimes end up deciding to notch it down/up 1% every so often to check if it's still clipping a little bit or not.When i first tried this out i wrote a piece here describing my experience and emotions of my discovery (though i cannot and do not claim to have discovered this as it is nothing new that others have not already discovered and shared elsewhere on the internet). You can skip it and read on if you want of course, i just go into more detail how my performance improved exponentially overnight and why.HR/HR(side-note: please complete part 1 before working on part 2 as they are somewhat interrelated.

You will now have ironed out any and all initial ffb deadzone on your wheel in rfactor 2. Enjoy!Update to part 2: You no longer need to mess around in the json file to change the steering torque minimum value.

The function is now accessible ingame and the UI setting is called 'FFB minumum torque'. Here's is pic of it by Justy:HR/HRFinishedOk, that's all. Boy that took a while to write up.I will be updating/correcting as i go along re-reading it and i will post below with any edits or new editions I make.Hope you find it useful in unlocking your own full potential too.HR/HRUpdates/Editsedit 1: Thanks to Luke Dykstra for noting that you must have the 'steering torque minimum' value represented to 5 decimal places for it to work. First download WheelCheck.exe:Alternative download link:Next, plug in your wheel and then open ' WheelCheck.exe'.To check for ffb linearity: Click the 'Spring Force' drop down menu and click 'Step Log 2 (linear force test)' and the test will immediately begin. Leave it to run it's course and then when your wheel stops moving (you will know because it goes from weak force to strongest force in the iteration test) close the program. Then go to your 'Documents' folder and find the newly created log2 xxxxxx.etc file.

Make a graph of it with 'force' values along the x-axis and deltaX (or deltaXdeg) along the y-axis. This is give you a graph of your ffb's linearity.To simply check your ffb's initial deadzone: Click the 'Spring Force' drop down menu and click 'Min force'. The test will immediately start and you will shortly be told your min force value at the bottom.

It will say 'Your maximum value for steeringFFBBaseOffset is.%'. Use that percentage as your starting value for figuring out the ideal min torque value for your wheel in rf2. Click to expand. Edit 8: Thanks to Mee for reminding me with the new json file format for the controller.ini file, now called controller.json, you do not need to input values to 5 decimal places for the 'steering torque mininum' value to work.

Just put in a value to as many decimal places as you want/need.edit 9: In case you have trouble downloading the WheelCheck.exe file from the host site.edit 10: Steering torque minimum now accessible ingame (i.e. On the fly) via the UI setting in the controller settings page/menu called 'FFB minimum torque'.edit 11: Flaux made some pretty interesting observations/discovery regarding spring and damper settings in the profiler and how they relate to rf2. Seems i was wrong and that enabling spring/damper effects in the profiler does not produce a layer of artificial spring/damper effects onto the ffb wheel. Instead enabling them in the profiler will then allows the game to apply any spring/damper affects it may have coded for the ffb. I still believe these affects are artificial because if they were a natural product of the dynamic ffb simulation you would/should not be able to disable themHaving said that, since writing this guide i've come to understand the possible value of these settings to the ffb realism since they can/possibly help remedy some issues with consistent steering system inertia and damping simulation that is inherently impossible to achieve accurately with the way conventional ffb hardware+software works.

I would advise that you give it and try and see for yourself. It could well be worth it.Here is Flaux's post that covers the details. Actually just been playing with it right now. I have found Malaysia GP to be a good testing sight with all the corner variations. I have now added the plugin you mentioned which has been a big help. So far the Megane I have found ideal setting at 88% and the Formula Renault is down at 79%.

What a difference in ffb definition in the turns. Overall strength really hasen't changed for the most part, as higher settings are over the g27's capabilities anyway. Once again thanks for the great write up I'm sure this will improve many peoples rF2 experience. Music to my ears of your experience with it and very good idea using Malaysia GP to test on as you rightly said it covers pretty much every type of corner in one track!I'm still shocked by the 21.5% value you need to remove the deadzone on your g27. Oh and are you now able to use the default 100% overall effects strength in your logitech profiler? I'm surprised with the high ideal ffb multi value you found for Panoz. I'm using 0.55 as I told before and it feels really good with 2-2,5% of minimum torque.

I would imagine raising the multi by 0.3 would make the steering feel really heavy:s (which would effect going to slow corners negatively because in those situations you need to turn the wheel fast) Maybe I just don't have muscle for the jobBut you have helped me understand the importance of ffb setting even better so I thank you very much for that. This is an insanely interesting thread, and I think I'm finally ready to get rid of the ffb clipping on my G27 wheel.I found some 'nice' settings last summer, which I have refined over the last year.

However, these settings just gave me a really heavy wheel (which I really like) but also lots of clipping of course.But my question is, can I still have a nice heavy wheel, but avoid clipping? Where would I start on a G27, with both the Logitech Profiler, ingame settings and.ini.My fear is that I'll just get a limp wheel that I cannot get used to, after driving for a year with a heavy but clipping wheel. I'm surprised with the high ideal ffb multi value you found for Panoz. I'm using 0.55 as I told before and it feels really good with 2-2,5% of minimum torque. I would imagine raising the multi by 0.3 would make the steering feel really heavy:s (which would effect going to slow corners negatively because in those situations you need to turn the wheel fast) Maybe I just don't have muscle for the jobBut you have helped me understand the importance of ffb setting even better so I thank you very much for that. Click to expand.Yeah it does make the wheel very heavy in the panoz in slow corners! I've been driving it at old spa online and the last (hairpin) corner makes the wheel crazy heavy.

But to my memory, I don't recall it clipping at all so it was the ideal value for the panoz. I will keep my eye out on the ffb bar though to double check the next time I'm in it but I think it isn't clipping.edit: Don't forget that i now use 70% overall strength in the t500 control panel now and not 100% which requires much lower ingame ffb multiplier where i was using 0.46 with the Megane before (because of the non-linearity and ffb clipping from the wheel's profiler side of things that 100% induced). But i don't want to confuse new comers to the thread by the difference in the profiler settings and why i was using 100% instead of 70% (because before steering torque minimum was introduced, using 100% was the only way to try and reduce the initial deadzone amount).

This is an insanely interesting thread, and I think I'm finally ready to get rid of the ffb clipping on my G27 wheel.I found some 'nice' settings last summer, which I have refined over the last year. However, these settings just gave me a really heavy wheel (which I really like) but also lots of clipping of course.But my question is, can I still have a nice heavy wheel, but avoid clipping?

Where would I start on a G27, with both the Logitech Profiler, ingame settings and.ini.My fear is that I'll just get a limp wheel that I cannot get used to, after driving for a year with a heavy but clipping wheel. Click to expand.Yeah I think you can still live with using a compromise between the old and new settings to maintain a strong/stiff presence in your wheel. But if you haven't yet already tried using the new steering torque minimum with the default Logitech profiler wheel strength and non clipped ffb value, I would urge you to do this first because it might surprise you how much stronger your wheel will generally become after removing the huge deadzone on the g27.

If its still not strong enough though then go ahead and increase the Logitech profiler overall effects strength a little (but not more than 110-115% to avoid going into severe non linearity).However if this doesn't feel acceptably as strong as your old settings to you (due to perhaps excessive ffb clipping with your old settings which made it feel very stiff/strong) then the only other option is to get a new wheel. In my own experience a t500 was a great improvement over a csr-elite which was a good improvement over a g25/27. I really enjoy my t500.

Click to expand.Funny you should mention this because maybe 6-12 months ago i turned down all the virtual head movement strengths by perhaps 50-75%. Simple reason being that although it is a very nice effect to simulate head movements in a virtual car, if it's too aggressive (not that i'm saying it is or it isn't in rf2 as i really don't have a well defined opinion on it atm) you can end up reducing the effectiveness of your visual reference/cues of the car's pitch, roll and yaw rates. However i think some time ago it was reset and i forgot about it and haven't gone back to check if it's reverted back and/or needs lowering again.I will check it out again in the near future.